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DIRECTIONS 



FOR 



MEASURING AND DRAFTING 



C-ARKSNTS 



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BS THP. 



^SITSCIT STEEL S?^I3JG f 



BY J.M. BOSTIAN. 






SUNBTJRY: 

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR, 



1550. 



JLy. 



Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1850, by Jo^a 
?ha!c M. BosTii^V in the Clerk's office of the .District Court for tha 
Eastern District of Pennsylvania, 



Printed at the Office of the 
"sunbury american l> 



PREFACE. 



In every age of the world it has been the study of artists to clothe 
the human form in becoming attire, and to attain a style which will 
set it forth to the beat advantage in all its symmetrical proportions. 
To gain this end it is necessary to adopt some mode, or rule, for cut- 
ting garments which may be applied to the most deformed, as well as 
the most symmetrical person, and which: will enable the artist to ana- 
lyse, anatomically, the form to which he is called to adapt a garment. 
To measure and cut a garment is no mere mechanical operation. It 
requires a critical examination of the peculiar anatomical points of 
your subject, and an artistic application of any stated rule which may 
be used. Hence it is that rules lor cutting garments are so numerous : 
and each successive one claims to approach nearer to perfection than 
its predecessor. Certainly, the one which is most applicable in its 
various measurements of the human body, overcomes deformity, and 
renders symmetry symmetrical, approaches nearest to perfection, be 
it simple or complex in its application. 

The author of this work, in presenting it to the public, does it with 
perfect confidence in its utility and easy application to the art of gar- 
ment cutting. Having applied the rules here laid down, in his own ex- 
perience as a cutter, for several years, he has brought it to such a 
state of perfection as to warrant his presenting it to the notice of his 
fellow artists. In his explanations he has carefully avoided all super- 
fluous and ambiguous phrases, and endeavored to render them in the 
most, simple and concise language. 

(3) 












DIRECTIONS 

For Measuring and Drafting Garments by the Tendon Steel 

Spring. 



MEASURE FOR COAT. 

Take the breast and waist measure under the coat. Request your 
customer to button his coat, — then take the length of your coat, say 
18 inches to hollow of waist; length of waist, say 21 inches,— length 
cf the skirt, say 38 inches: then request your customer to set his 
hands on his hips, — then mark with a piece of chalk on the tendon, 
or muscle, as it is commonly called, which is found in front of the 
arm — place the spring on the arm, with the tape on the chalk, and 
fasten the spring well, then measure in front of the arm to the socket 
bone, say 12f inches — then over the shoulder, down to the hollow of 
the waist, say 25i inches, — then turn your tape back of the arm and 
measure up to the socket bone, say 14§ inches, — then measure over 
the scapular, or shoulder blade, as it is commonly called, to back 
seam, say Hi inches, — then down to hollow of waist, say 13| inches, 
then throw your tape forward between the third and fourth button, 
mark with a piece of chalk at, say 6 or 7 inches down the spring 
tape, and make a star, — then measure down from socket bone to 
star, say 17 inches, in front of the arm — from the socket bone down, 
back of the arm to star, say 20i inches, — from star to hollow of 
waist, say 13 inches, — take the length of the sleeve from the middle 
of the back to the elbow, say 20J inches —to the hand, say 32 inches, 
width at the elbow, say IS inches — hand, say 9||inches. 

The overcoat measure is taken the same as represented above, 
except the breast, waist, and stock measures, which are taken over 
the coat, and from the star in front of the arm to the top of the 
breast bone under the chin, and from star F to the same place for the 
height of the neck. * 



MEASURE FOR VEST. 
Take the breast and waist measure under the coat, say 3G and 30 



inches, — length of roll from the socket bone, say 17| inches, length of 
vest, say 27 1 inches. 



MEASURE FOR PANTS. 

Place your tape as high as you want your pants, then measure 
down to the knee, say 24 inches, whole length, say 43 inches, — place 
your tape on a square, and place the square between the legs, and 
measure the length of the leg, say 33 inches, waist, say 80 inches, 
haunch, iay 37 inches, boot, back part, say 14 inches, front 7 inches. 



BACK. .No. I. 

Draw line A on the edge of the cloth, and measure down/ say 2i 
inches for length of waist, — for length of skirt, say 38 inches. Square 
lines D and 6r, then go in on line G t say 1$ inches, and draw line B — 
measure down on line B, say 14£ on No. 5, — square line JB, and 
measure in on line U, say Hi on No. 4, then measure in on line E 
from By say 11$ on No. 1, from this to the top of the back square the 
top of the back, — measure down on line B, say 18 inches, then draw 
line F, and form the back according to fashion. 



SKIRT. No. 3, 

Draw spring line on your cloth. Place your forepart as repre- 
sented, and draw line M : form pleat and waist seam as represented ; 
then lay your forepart as if joined, and see whether your spring is 
right, then draft your skirt as represented, or according to fashion. 



(8) 



FOREPART. No. 2. 

Go in from the back scye where the back comes out of your cloth, 
say 3(> on No. 4, and at the waist one-fouith of the waist measure, 
and draw line A, — from A measure down, say 12| inches, from B to 
C is, say 14 \ on No. 8: from A down to D is, say 121 on No. 3, — 
place your ruler at No. 8 on line A, and angle out by A for neck 
gorge, — from A angle out the opposite way by A, for back seam: then 
draw lines T, U, C, and B, — measure out on line B twice the dis- 
tance of lU on No. 1, for the star in front of the arm, — measure out 
on line C twice the distance of Hi on No. 1, and twice the distance 
of Hi on No. 7, — from the front of the scye sweep, say 6 inches, for 
star at F, from socket bone down to F, say 17 inches, then sweep 
from star in front of scye to hollow of waist, say 13 inches, then lay 
the back as represented in the draft, chalk the side seam, place your 
finger on line C, on the back, and move your back out from the bot- 
tom until it corresponds with lis inches from the star, which will 
give your round over the scapular. Let your back lay, and apply 
the measures up to the socket bone, form your side seam, and get its 
length. Place your hand, with tape, at the socket bone, and from the 
bottom of the side seam sweep the length of your coat in front: then 
apply your waist measure, and go up on side seam, say 80 on No. 9, 
and draw line O: then go in from side seam, say 30 on No. 5, and 
draw the fish line from this, and sweep the waist seam by, say 15 
inches, one-half of waist measure : from line A on line D, 36 on No. 
5 ; lay your back along line T, and apply your measure over the 
shoulder to hollow of the waist on the back, then form your gorge 
and scye, and draft your coat as represented. Draw spring line 
from No, 7 in centre of scye to hip point. 

(10) 



■ • ■ ■' 



SLEEVE. No. 4. 

Draw line A and B. Measure down on line A, say 121 on No. 1: 
from line 5 12 3-4 on No. 8; on line B 11 \ on No. 1, from thence 1 U 
on No. 2. Draw line 2?: measure out on line E one-half of what the 
scye measures, say 7 8-4 inches ; sweep the sleeve-head by 7 8-4, 
then measure the length of the sjeeve from the elbow, and angle out 
by C fur bend of arm : then measure your sleeve-head and under 
sleeve, making your under sleeve correspond with 15£ inches: allow 
1J inches for fullness in your sleeve head. Draft according to 
fashion. 



'FROCK COAT SKIRT. No. 8. 

Draw line A. Then measure up on line A the length of your skirt, 
from this measure up on line A, say 30 inches, waist measure, and 
from this sweep the bottom, and waist seam, — from the waist seam 
measure up on line A two-thirds of the waist measure, say 20 inches, 
make your waist seam correspond with the waist seam on your fore- 
part, and then draw line D. Form your skirt as represented. 



(14) 




■ 



'.■•-■ 



VEST, No. 5, 

Square line ID on the bottom, and line A on the edge of the cloth. 
Measure up on line A from D, say 27 inches, — from this go down on 
line A. say 86 on No. 1, 36 on No. 7, 86 on No. 4, and §6 on No. 2. 
About 2| inches from this chalk, go in from lin^.#, say 36 on No. 7 : 
for front of scye draw H and C: measure in on line B, say 86 on No. 
8, and 86 on No. 1— ,then go in on line C one-fourth of the breast 
measure, say 9 inches, to which add 1£ inches, — then measure out on 
line D, say 1\ inches, to which add 1 inch. Draw line E, and mea- 
sure the length of the roll, say 17 inches — then draw the oreaserow. 
Place your left hand on lines D and E, and sweep the shoulder seam* 
Draft according to fashion, or as represented. 



VEST BACK. No. 6, 

Line A represents the fold of the muslin. Square F, and place th^ 
bottom of your forepart on line F, extending along line A, — mark at 
bottom and top of scye, — square lines B and C, and measure on line 
B, say 36 on No. 6, and 86 on No. 3,--then measure on line C, 86 on 
No. 6, from line measure on A, 86 on No. 7. For top of hmck 
measure in on line B* say 36 on No. % from this to top of back square 
E, measure out on line E S& on JNo. K and 36 on No. 7, then mea- 
sure out on line F, say 7i inches, to which add 2 inches for fullness. 
|)raft as represented. 



MIS £fo 1 

©raw lines A and C. From C to If* ^ay 24 inches, and from C 
to 35? say 43 inches-, and from E to B, say 31 inches. Square B, D? 
and E: then measure in on line E 1£ inches, and draw line F, — ■ 
measure in on line B 37 un No. 4, 37 on No. 7, and 37 on No. 8,-— 
then measure in on IineJE,*say f inches, and draw line T f — square 
line G, and measure in from line G on line C one-fourth of the waist 
measure, — form your forepart as represented: then lay your forepart 
on your^cloti^to the best advantage? continue line B out on your eltytfe, 
measure on line B, say 37 on No. 8, for line T, and 37 on No. 8, for 
the width of your hindpart, — sweep the top of your hindpart from the 
point where lines B and G come together. Form your pants accord* 
ing to fashion, or as represented in the draft. 



SAC& BACK. No. £ 

Draw line A. Measure down, say 18 inches— 36 inches for fhe 
length of your coat, then draw lines D and C, — go in on line C 1§ 
Inches and draw line B, then go down on line B, say 36 on No. 5 — 
on line C 30 on No. 6, waist measure— on line E, say 9 inches* or 
one-fourth of the breast measure. Drait as represented, or accord- 
ing to fashion. 

(22) 



SACK FOREPART. Nov 10. 

Line A represents the edge of the cloth. Lay jour back along line 
A, with the bottom of the back at the bottom of the cloth, and mark 
at the lower part of the back scye on the back for line D, — from D to 
C is, say 36 on No. 8, from D*to B 36 on No. 4, from B to E 36 on 
No. 3, from E to F 36 .on No. 7. Measure in on line C 36 on No. 7, for 
line G — twice the distance of No. 7 for star in front of scye. Mea- 
sure in on line D 36 on No. 7, for point of back scye of forepart, — 
measure in on line E 36 on No. 7, and 36 on No. 6. Form your coai 
according to fashion, or as represented. 

(26) 



OVERCOAT DRAFT. No. 11. 

An overcoat is cut in the same manner as a dress coat, except the 
backs, which are cut wider and longer in the waist, according 
to fashion. Where you go in on line C and B, twice the distance of 
say ] 1£ on No. 1, you go in once the distance of \2h on No. 2. You 
must add one inch to all your measures, except from one star to the 
other. Draft as represented. 



EXPLANATIONS OF THE RULER. 

On the side where the scales are double. will be found the breast 
and shoulder scales. The scales on the edge of the ruler are the 
shoulder measure scales. The ones on the inside of the ruler are for 
breast measure. The scales on the single side are for breast and 
waist muasure, which the ruler shows. No. 8 is the first shoulder, 
and Nos. 8 and 5 are the third measures, — 1, 2, 4, and 7, are for the 
fourth measure. 



DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE BREAST MEASURE SCALES. 

You will use scale 4 for the distance from line D to line C. Use 
the other scales as directed for shoulder measure. To bring your 
coat in at the hollow of the waist, take one-fourth of the waist mea- 
sure from the hollow of waist to line A, 



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